Occasionally, on the photographer/model networking sites I use (primarily Purpleport, sometimes Modelmayhem for US/Japan shoots, Purestorm less and less) you’ll see the odd post from (generalising here, but usually…) a new model, seemingly frustrated, and posting along the lines of ‘why are there not more castings for fashion shoots?’
I can definitely see the models perspective-you join a site because people keep telling you you should be a model, and, well, why not?… So you register on a couple of the sites with your phone photos, and the first people who approach you are a bit sketchy, with just half a dozen badly lit shots on their portfolio, commenting ‘stunning, hun’ on Every Image You Post Ever. Or, they’re asking to do a lingerie shoot in his (usually his…) spare bedroom, aka ‘home studio’. So, no wonder the new model is frustrated that there aren’t more opportunities for fashiony shoots. So, why not? Well, here’s my perspective.
The short version-I don’t shoot much fashion because shooting fashion well, getting consistently good images, is a lot of work, and really, really hard. And I can’t be doing with that malarkey.
The long version. I spend my working days co-ordinating teams, and ensuring that things come together on pretty big projects. The last thing I want to do is become a project manager again in my ‘hobby’ time. If you’re going to shoot fashion in an impressive way-by which I mean to the standard which will see your images published-there’s a lot of time, effort and money involved. You have to be able to call upon the services of a make up artist, hair stylist, wardrobe stylist, and find/secure/hire a location. Oh-and a model. Now, that’s a lot of people to co-ordinate, and herd, and a lot of egos to massage as well. If I had aspirations to be a professional photographer, then I’d probably be a lot more willing to take this work on. I don’t though-I’m a hobbyist who sees photography as a way to relax away from the day job. So, I’m looking for the path of least resistance to get me the quality/style of images I want, and even that still involves quite a bit of work.
To shoot decent fine art, or lingerie, you need a model, and a location. I’ve used studios in my time (still do), hotels, locations (stately home, well dressed house, etc…), as well as beaches, fields and so on. Some are free of charge, some are cheap, and some are not. Short version: ubiquitous=cheap, unique=expensive. Budget wise, presume £25 an hour, as an average.
Next, you need a model. Now, if you’ve got a portfolio of quality images, it’s sometimes very possible to find a model willing to work ‘tf’. (Another article right there, I suspect…) -that is, willing to offer their time in exchange for images-‘tf’. And that’s great, particularly if the model is clearly good at managing their own makeup, and wardrobe. So, you’ve got your shoot location, and you’ve managed to find a model who’s willing to work with you tf.
Now, if you’re shooting to a particular style-say boudoir, lingerie, art-nude, then you’ve now got everything you need for a productive shoot. You’ve booked four hours at the location, that shoot’s going to cost you £100, plus the time to edit/produce final images for your model. You’re good to go.
If you’re shooting fashion, though-and by fashion I don’t mean an insta-famous model in a park in natural light, (which is not me having a pop-I do this myself, and get some great images.), I mean something that isn’t going to look out of place in Love, or Pop-then blimey you’ve still have a ton of stuff to do. Location-tick. Model-tick. You’re just getting started. Next up is the make up artist, which is going to cost around £40 an hour, particularly if you want a make up artist who’s also good at hair styling. And a wardrobe stylist-add another £40 an hour… And, now, your shoot is costing over £100 an hour. For four hours. And you’ll probably need four hours (at least, I know I would) because the first 30 minutes will be spent discussing what outfits get worn, with what look, and where, and the next hour/90 minutes is for makeup and hair, and so on, leaving you maximum one to two hours of shoot time.
And another thing. The primary aim of good fashion photography is to sell the clothes, not the model, I’m told. The model is there to hang the clothes on, and to blend into the background as much as possible, so the focus is on the clothes. A glorified clothes hanger. I suspect this is why the majority of images in these mags, the models just look, well, disinterested, blank. That’s the point, and that’s not my thing. I’m more interested in people. (I was massively flattered when a very highly regarded model I’ve shot with a few times was looking through my portfolio on Purpleport recently and said ‘you’re really strong with portraits’. I never thought of myself as a portrait photographer, definitely not in the headshot sense, but can totally see where she’s coming from, and was more than happy that that was what she’d taken from my images, rather than, say ‘you’re really strong with lingerie’ or ‘you’re really strong with pinup’… )
So, there you go. I can’t speak for anyone else, but should I be asked the question-why are there more photographers looking for art nude and lingerie than fashion, here’s my answer: Lingerie/nude require fewer resources, and cost less, be it actual money, or time taken in prep and co-ordination, to do well. Most of the photographers on the various sites are, like me, hobbyist photographers, and on a budget. If the objective is to get as many great images as possible for your budget, then chances are, fashion is not the best way for me to go.
So, that’s why I don’t shoot so much fashion stuff. That’s just me, though, but maybe this’ll give at least my answer to the question.
Jean Anomalie, London Photographer 